The Story of India’s Age-Old Natural Antimicrobial Dyes

It is no secret that synthetic dyes dominate the global textile trade. Before we take a moment to reflect on India’s naturally dyed textiles from a time before synthetic colours existed, it is worth asking how harmful are toxic synthetic dyes, especially those used in fast fashion? They can cause anything from mild skin irritation to serious health problems. The harm begins at the source, where workers in dyeing factories breathe in chemical fumes and handle hazardous substances daily, increasing their risk of long-term illness. The damage continues after production, when untreated dye waste is released into rivers and streams, poisoning marine life, polluting freshwater, and eventually flowing into oceans. Even when we wash these fabrics at home, tiny dye particles are rinsed away, repeating the same cycle of contamination.

Ayurvastra is a traditional practice of Ayurveda with textile arts, where fabric is dyed on natural yarns using medicinal herbs and plants. It is based on the ancient Indian system of Ayurveda, which is over 5,000 years old. The practice of using medicinal herbs in textiles is linked to the origins of Ayurveda, dating back as far as 1,000 to 1,500 BCE. These textiles were believed to support health and wellbeing, soothing skin ailments and holistic wellness, unlike the toxic garment dyes used today.

The Rise of Synthetic Dyes and What We Lost

Indigo

A deep blue dye extracted from the indigo plant (Indigofera tinctoria) is one of the world's oldest dye. Initially, indigo naturalis was used as a primitive dye in ancient India and then introduced into China through Persia. It is said that indigo-dyed fabrics are naturally antimicrobial and cooling, making them beneficial for the skin, especially in warm climates.

Turmeric 

Turmeric needs no introduction. For over 4,000 years, its golden hue has been a part of India’s kitchens, medicines, and rituals. What many forget is that it was once as common on cloth as it was in food. The bright yellow dye, extracted from the turmeric root, brought warmth and vibrancy to fabrics. In Ayurveda, turmeric is prized for its antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and skin-soothing qualities.

Chay Root 

The chay root, taken from the root bark of Oldenlandia umbellata, produces a deep, natural red that once coloured fabrics in the seventeenth century. It was valued for its rich, lasting tones. So why is it so rare today? The late nineteenth century saw the rapid rise of synthetic dyes, which were cheaper and faster to produce. They replaced many natural dyes, including chay root, and in the process erased much of the artistry and sustainability that came with them. Only a few artisans still keep this tradition alive.

Aal Dye

Morinda citrifolia, also known as Indian Mulberry or Aal in India, has a long history in traditional dyeing, particularly for producing red. Aal was used to create vivid reds and earthy tones, and its presence in archaeological textile fragments dating back to the first millennium BCE shows how far back its roots run in our cultural and artistic heritage. It holds centuries of skill and connection to our land.

It is sad that India, being home to such a rich history and such wonderful practices of using natural components in textiles, now sees only some of them being revived or practised. Do we really need to replace them with today’s conventional dyes that are harmful? Most of these practices have been forgotten, replaced by toxic, short-sighted alternatives. A handful of sustainable brands are working to revive them, but the change will only grow if people choose to value them. The choice is still ours, and the question is whether we will return to our plant based natural dyes, or continue with those that harm.