Handloom vs Powerloom and the Differences You Need to Know

The markets are filled with powerloom fabrics, with no signs of it slowing down. Although there is a growing interest in choosing handloom textiles, many buyers believe they are supporting craft by trusting the price tag and the label. But what many do not realize is that several of these fabrics are actually machine made replicas. Powerloom copies mimic the look of traditional weaves so well that even trained eyes can get confused.

The textures feel similar, the patterns look familiar, and the vocabulary used by sellers blurs the line between imitation and original. We break down five specific Indian handloom techniques, showing you exactly how to identify the real version and how to spot a machine made substitute. The price has to be the biggest giveaway because handmade work is not cheap and it should not be cheap. It is a livelihood that feeds the artisan's family. These differences are not always obvious, but they matter. They help protect true artisanship from being erased.

1. Ikat

The yarn is resist-dyed before the weaving begins. This technique causes a natural blur or feathering at the edges of the motifs. Both sides of the fabric carry equal intensity, and no part of the design is printed. It has slight misalignments that are very normal and actually enhance its beauty.

Powerloom Imitation:
The pattern is printed or digitally woven. The back side looks dull. The blur looks too sharp. There are no misalignments or thread joins visible. Look at both sides of the fabric. If the back of the fabric feels smooth, it is likely a print or powerloom.

2. Jamdani

The motifs are added manually by the weaver using a discontinuous weft technique. You will find thread floats and tiny variations in size and spacing. The process is time-intensive, and no two motifs are exactly the same.

Powerloom Imitation:
Machines produce geometric motifs using jacquard looms. The designs appear perfect and repetitive. The reverse side is clean, with no sign of hand-inserted threads.

3. Paithani

Weavers use a technique to build motifs into the border and pallu. Pure zari is inserted by hand. All elements like peacocks or lotuses are slightly different. The zari ages well over time.

Powerloom Imitation:
The design is repetitive, and the zari often looks synthetic. There is no individuality in the motifs. Borders and bodies may be woven in one go, with no separation. Check if motifs are identical, and if everything looks too perfect, it is machine made.

4. Kanchipuram Silk

The body and border are woven separately and then joined using the korvai technique. This creates a small visible bump at the join. You will notice rich texture, strong colour contrast, and tight weaving.

Powerloom Imitation:
There is no bump or separation between body and border. Designs are clean but lack weight. The fabric feels flat.

5. Bhujodi

The patterns are woven into the fabric using extra weft techniques. You may see slight irregularities in motif size and placement. The threads used are mostly cotton or wool, with occasional mirror work or hand-tied tassels.

Powerloom Imitation:
Designs appear repetitive and lack the character of hand-set threads. Sometimes acrylic yarns are used instead of natural fibres. Feel the weight and check the threads. Are they natural and textured or shiny and synthetic? Hand-tied tassels often feel uneven and machine tassels are too symmetrical.

Real handloom is a living process that shows time and skill. These details are signs of life woven into the cloth. Powerloom copies may look appealing at first glance, but they erase the human labour that handloom depends on. They take from a tradition without giving back to it. That is why we need to be educated about this, because knowing the difference can protect the craft and the people who keep it alive.